Q & A
With Gregory Alan
A healthy and effective color process that takes you from red to blonde.
Q: I have a client who I have been making a very vibrant shade or red for the past 6 months. The red is great. It usually never fades and she has been happy with it. My problem is that she wants to go from red to blonde. I have some ideas on how to get there, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
A: Going to blonde from red is not an easy task, but I have a few tricks up my sleeve that may help you. First, it is important that you and your client are on the same page as to what shade of blonde is desired. Second, it is up to you as a colorist, to let your client know that going from red to blonde is a process and will most likely take more than one salon visit. I believe that your client has a lot of red pigment built up in the cortex of the hair because he/she has been a vibrant shade of red consistently for 6 months. With that said, there will very likely be more than one salon visit from your client.
Here are my some ideas on how to take your client from red to blonde.
*Please note that for the first visit aim to achieve a lighter version of what your client currently has.
1. To bring your client a shade or 2 lighter, I suggest using a color boosting shampoo i.e. bleach wash. I recommend 1 oz. clarifying shampoo, 1 oz. of powder lightener, and 1 oz. of 20 volume developer. Rinse your client’s hair and then apply this formulation quickly and sparingly. Allow this to process until you reach your desired result. *Look for an undertone of a level lighter than where you would like. Let’s assume your client is a level 6. You are trying to go slightly lighter than a level 7. Your goal should be to lift your client’s hair to an orange/yellow (predominantly orange).
2. Once you have achieved the desired undertone, apply a level glaze to the hair.
3. After the hair has processed and dried, highlight throughout the top and around the face, fusing the color about ½ of an inch away from the root area. *This will give your client a beautiful, dimensional, transitional color!
*Allow 4-6 weeks for your client’s next salon visit.
4. At the 2nd salon visit, highlight your client’s hair with a golden copper shade in mind.
5. At the 3rd salon visit, highlight your client’s hair with a golden blonde shade in mind.
*During each visit, make sure you educate your client on the proper hair care during this color transitioning process
I hope this helps!
(Images courtesy of instyle.com)